Salute to 250: Reaper (not Grim) and the Atomic Bombing of America, Florence South Carolina, and Happy 250th Birthday America!

Whatin the heck do these two things have in common? Well, nothing, and everything actually. After the birth of our young nation, an era of entrepreneurship exploded across the land. As we traveled south out of Virginia and into the Carolinas, we passed an exit sign for Steele’s Tavern, and Wendy, of course, couldn’t resist investigating. This was the place that, in the summer of 1831, Cyrus McCormick chose to demonstrate his new invention, the McCormick Reaper, on a field of wheat owned by John Steele, the tavern owner. The single horse-drawn device that looked like a sled with some machinery on top of it, could grab a large swath of grain stalks while the heads were chopped off, discarding the stalks out the back, where Cyrus walked along and raked them into piles that could be bound up as usual. The horse, you see, was doing all the big work, which let a single man work not only faster, but longer and more efficiently. A new age of agricultural mechanization had begun, enabling dramatically higher harvests to feed a growing nation.

But what about the bomb? The connection is via geography. At the other end of our drive that day was Florence, South Carolina. Very near to where we camped is a small community named Mars Bluff, which would be entirely unremarkable if it weren’t the site of the only accidental explosion of an atomic bomb on American soil. According to the Florence County Museum, at 3:53 on Tuesday, March 11, 1958, a group of four B-47E planes took off from Hunter Air Force Base in Savannah Georgia in route to England. The small convoy of planes was performing a routine task that was part of a mission called Operation Snow Flurry. Operation Snow Flurry consisted of US military B-47s flying to England to perform mock bomb drops. Electronic receivers on the ground would receive signals from the B-47’s, and that data would later be used to determine the accuracy of the mock bombing runs. During the Cold War, Air Force bombers, such as the ones being used on this particular Tuesday for Operation Snow Flurry were issued a MK 6 nuclear bomb. These bombs were carried onboard in case the planes needed to activate during an emergency wartime situation. While preparing for their transatlantic journey shortly after takeoff, the co-pilot of the 3rd B-47 had pulled a lever that was meant to engage a locking pin in the plane’s bomb harness, thus keeping the bomb extra secure for the flight’s duration.

The co-pilot reported that a light indicated that the locking pin of the bomb harness did not engage. The pilot sent flight navigator, Bruce Kulka back to inspect the problem and fix it. Bruce, a short man, while attempting to pull himself up on top of the bomb to inspect its locking harness accidentally grabbed the bomb’s emergency release mechanism. It was at this moment that Bruce and the MK-6 fell down on to the plane’s bomb bay doors. The combined weight of the bomb and Bruce forced the bomb-bay doors open and released the MK-6 into free fall. Bruce, in desperation, grabbed for something and was able to save himself from the 15,000 ft drop. But there was no stopping the bomb. It had just left the plane.

A Mark 6 bomb isn’t nuclear unless its core containing the nuclear elements is installed. When Bruce Kulka and the MK-6 fell to B-47’s bomb bay doors its nuclear capsule was safe in a separate compartment on the plane called the “birdcage”. While not nuclear at the time of its unintended release, the 10 foot long 7,000 lbs. MK-6 (approximate value $2 Billion) still carried a substantial payload of explosives that functioned as its triggering mechanism.

When Bruce’s bomb met the earth it happened to do so near the home of Walter “Bill” Gregg, 6 ½ miles east of Florence SC in Mars Bluff. The impact instantaneously created a 50×70 ft. crater 25-30 ft. deep. The bomb’s detonation leveled nearby pine trees and virtually destroyed the Gregg residence, shifting the house off of its foundation. Everything in the home was left in ruin. The blast also totaled both of Walter Gregg’s vehicles. Walter and his family were home at that time (4:34 PM), but they were fortunate in that they only sustained relatively minor injuries when compared to the damage of the Greggs’ property. One eyewitness, J.A. Sanders, driving nearby on Hwy. 301 at the time of the explosion reported that the force of the shockwave was so substantial that it was able to turn his moving automobile around in the road. Meanwhile eight miles away, Florence County employees reported hearing the explosion and being able to view the cloud of dust caused by the explosion from the roof of the courthouse. The Gregg family sued the Air Force and received $54,000. Adjusted for inflation, that would be $602,595 today. Except today, I’m pretty sure you could do about 10X better on the settlement, or perhaps selling the story to a tabloid.

The site is still federally protected today by a long fence constructed to keep the curious out. We got within about 500 feet of the crater, which is barely recognizable today, before deciding we couldn’t make the arduous trek in on the 95☀ blazing hot day.

Entrepreneurship doesn’t follow a proscribed path; one path that leads to virtuous productivity parallels another that leads to possible planetary annihilation. At least in America, we are free to pursue either path. You can find more on the story here: Mars Bluff Bomb.

On a brighter note, Wendy’s research also uncovered the secret 14th colony! Well, the almost colony. From 1638 – 1655, an area that extended across the Delaware Valley, encompassing parts of modern day New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware and Maryland, was known as New Sweden.

Created in secret, the under-the-radar colony, was created out of revenge by Peter Minuit, known as the man who negotiated the purchase of Manhattan for the Dutch. He had been scouting the mid-Atlantic for territory to establish New Netherland when he was abruptly dismissed, and seeking revenge he approached Sweden with a proposition to create a colony for them as the only non-represented European power in America. The land he offered lay north of Virginia and west of the Dutch purchased lands, which went all the way up to but not past the shore of the Delaware River. Sweden wanted the new colony, which was essentially squatting on prime Dutch fur-hunting land, to be kept on the down-low, but the secret didn’t keep for long. Fortunately, the Dutch didn’t have enough firepower to defend both New Amsterdam (today’s Manhattan) and the inland territory, so they ignored the incursion. The New Swedes actually built the first European permanent structure, Fort Christina, on the shores of the Delaware River in what would become the first American colony, Delaware.

Unfortunately, a hurricane took the life of Peter Minuet on a Caribbean tobacco-hunting trip five months after New Sweden was founded, and the 25 remaining settlers, with help from the indigenous natives, muddled along until 1643 when a 7 foot tall, 400 pound mountain-of-a-man named Johan Printz was appointed Governor. Johan built Fort Elfsborg and Fort New Gothenburg and expanded territory further into Maryland and Trenton New Jersey. Despite all the expansion, the territory was never profitable for Sweden, who cut off supplies in 1648 and began sending petty criminals and military deserters instead of productive colonists. Things when quickly downhill until a body of male colonists petitioned Johan, accusing him of abusing his authority. This is credited as the first success political protest in US colonial history.

It didn’t take long for Peter Stuyvesant, the hot-blooded Governor of New Netherland, to grow tired of the upstart Swedes and send seven armed ships down the Delaware River to root them out, which they did without a single shot being fired. New Sweden, although absorbed eventually into Pennsylvania, were allowed to keep their own local government, and contributed much to the formation of the new nation in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Polly Cooper, Native American Ally and great Woman of the Revolution

We previously highlighted great Women of the Revolution, and one reader (Hi Polly!) brought another to our attention: Polly Cooper. In January of 1778, George Washington had posted a request for help from Native Americans who had become sympathetic to the American cause because of mistreatment by the British. In February General Marquis de Lafayette delivered the entreaty to the Oneida and Tuscarora of the Mohawk Valley in New York, and in April of that year an expedition of about fifty Oneida made the 300 mile trek through snow and deep mud to Valley Forge to offer their services as scouts and guerilla fighters, and to deliver 600 baskets of badly needed corn to feed the starving troops. Polly Cooper was the only woman in that expedition. After the Oneida men were summoned home to defend against British raiders, Polly remained in Valley Forge to continue cooking and treating wounded and sick soldiers with her herbal knowledge of medicines. Without the help of the locals, it is highly unlikely that troops would have survived the winter in good enough condition to take the fight to the British once again, so we salute our Native American allies and thank them for their service.

And finally, as we trek the final stretch of asphalt to home, we offer up two takes on American heroism, one modern and one contemporary.

Chief Justice John Roberts with Justice Neil Gorsuch

Supreme Court Justice Neil Gorsuch is known as not only a dedicated constitutional jurist but as a big fanboy of the Revolution. He partnered with author Janie Nitze on an essay in The Free Press (thefp.com) entitled Neil Gorsuch: The Heroes of 1776. In that piece, located here https://open.substack.com/pub/bariweiss/p/neil-gorsuch-the-heroes-of-1776, he relates the diary entry of Joseph Plumb Martin (the same diarist who penned on the hero Mary Ludwig Hayes) who related the dire conditions during the British siege of Philadelphia’s Fort Mifflin beginning in September 1777, one of the most brutal battles of the RevWar. “In the cold month of November”, he fought “without provisions, without clothing,” without even “a scrap of either shoes or stockings.” He observed the long lines of dead soldiers toward the end of the battle and observed “if ever destruction was complete, it was here.” He was just 16 years old. This is but one of thousands of American stories of the war, fought against overwhelming odds and against the largest armed force on the planet. But it emblazons the picture on us of the grit and determination of those early Americans to bring forth their vision of freedom and self-determination.

President John Quincy Adams

John Quincy Adams was President of the United States in 1826 when he learned that his father and Jefferson had both died on that Fourth of July. He wrote in his diary what many others were thinking and saying, that this was a manifestation of “Divine favor.”

Daniel Webster, who was invited to deliver a eulogy in Faneuil Hall in Boston the following month, called the passing of Jefferson and Adams on that day a “dispensation of the Divine Providence.” “Adams and Jefferson are no more,” he intoned, but “their work doth not perish with them.” “No age will come,” said Webster, “in which the American Revolution will appear less than it is, one of the greatest events in human history.”

Celebrate this on our 250th communal birthday. Celebrate this every day of your life. Onward!

A fitting end to our journey, the large Camping World Flag in St. Augustine FL

Tippy is feeling patriotic and can’t wait for the party to start!

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Salute to 250: Revolutionary War Women Legends, and It’s NOT Stawnton

Mary Ludwig Hayes, RevWar legend, gripping her cannon plunger

There are many legendary women of the RevWar. We discovered perhaps the most famous one while driving south out of Pennsylvania enroute to Virginia. This wasn’t some kind of ghostly apparition hitchhiking on the interstate; it was first brought to our attention by a highway exit sign, Molly Pitcher Hwy, innocently staring back at us from where a ghostly apparition might stand along the side of the road. Wendy, scrolling for history on her phone as we passed towns and signs, looked her up. It turns out she IS an apparition of sorts, more myth than real person.

Molly Pitcher symbolizes the many women who supported the Revolutionary War effort, especially at the Battle of Monmouth, where she is remembered for carrying water to the troops and helping at a cannon after her husband was injured. The name associated with this historical bit of heroism is myth (Pitcher likely derives from the water carried to the troops), the story is not. Molly Pitcher, it seems, is a composite heroine, a blend of several women that evolved into a legend.

The broader “Molly Pitcher” figure seems to blend several women’s real wartime actions, especially at Monmouth and elsewhere. The women most often identified with the legend are Mary Ludwig Hays, Margaret Corbin and Deborah Sampson, with some of the legend derived from their histories and more color added as an inspiration for the composite figure than a direct match to the cannon-at-Monmouth story. The best evidence points to one of these women as the seed of the story.

Born to German immigrants in the mid-18th century, Mary Ludwig Hayes followed her husband to war and enlisted with Captain Francis Proctor’s company in the Pennsylvania Artillery. She earned admiration among the troops for her tireless support, washing clothes, caring for the sick, and carrying water to soldiers on the battlefield.

At the Battle of Monmouth in 1778 while delivering water to the parched troops in the sweltering heat, Mary famously stepped in and took over her husband’s cannon after he was wounded. Joseph Martin, a fellow soldier, wrote in his diary of her bravery, “a cannon shot from the enemy passed directly between her legs without doing any other damage than carrying away all the lower part of her petticoat. Looking at it with apparent unconcern, she observed that it was lucky it did not pass a little higher […] and continued her occupation.

After the battle, George Washington himself promoted her to non-commissioned officer, and she thereafter adopted the nickname “Sergeant Molly,” a title that stuck and granted her a place in Revolutionary War history. She was awarded a $40 military pension and is honored with a statue at her gravesite in Carlisle, Pennsylvania.

Yeah, I know, “Sarge Molly”, a cannonball between the legs, the suggestive strong grip on the barrel plunger, it all seems like the type of story that would very likely be conceived by our unrefined male colonial ancestors. Maybe what’s available today is the sanitized version? In any event, let us not dilute the historical greatness of any story of our colonial women, rather let us celebrate their accomplishments as part of our fight for freedom. This is what the stuff of history is made of! Especially in America, which has always stretched the rules.

Staunton is listed as one of the best small towns in America

We camped here on our way home at Walnut Hills Campground, located in the beautiful rolling hills outside of Staunton Virginia, which is listed as one of the best small towns in America. The people we talked to who were natives all reinforced that with pride. It is also known as The Queen City, not a reference to any royalty, and certainly not to anyone’s sexuality, but a nod to retaining one of the top best town spots. By the way, it’s pronounced “Stanton” (drop the “u”) for those that wish to not commit that small faux pas and to just eat their Waffle House breakfast in peace.

Still one of the great American places to mingle with locals and get a great breakfast

We visited the Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library; he’s a native son of Staunton. Fun fact: 8 of America’s Presidents hail from Virginia, more than any other state. Ohio is next with 7. The library is a very smallish affair consisting of one converted house (the museum and library) and another old house (his actual birthplace). It isn’t overly grand for a President that left a big impact on American history with the establishment of the Federal Reserve and his attempt to establish the League of Nations at the end of World War I. The League didn’t make it, but was a precursor to the United Nations, founded after World War II. If there was a successful League of Nations, we might not have seen WWII, but the deal to end WWI was so badly constructed that it led to the inevitable rise of German economic ruin and unemployment, then fascism and finally retribution against the western victors in the form of aggression. With all the good intentions of both the League and the UN, it is still the author’s opinion that it can all go in the dumpster, being more trouble than it is worth for virtually no problem solving. Remember, this is a family blog, only clean language in the comments!

Around the corner from the library are some beautiful old buildings. The National Valley Bank & Trust isn’t open to visitors, but looking through a window we could see a giant stained glass skylight.

And one church also got our attention.

Also in Staunton (admit it, in your brain you are still pronouncing it Stawnton, aren’t you?) is the Heifetz International Music Institute. The Heifetz is a nonprofit, hosted on the grounds of Mary Baldwin University (the oldest Presbyterian Women’s University), that trains exceptional young string musicians through intensive summer study, performance, and communication training. Founded in 1996, it also presents a Festival of Concerts that brings world-class faculty and students to the community each summer. There are festival signs and street flags everywhere, and when we walked the whole downtown stretch of Beverly Street, the main drag of the historic part of town, we were constantly dodging young people with various musical instrument cases. School is IN, you go kids!

But that isn’t the only summer fun in Staunton (shut up brain! It’s StAnton!). At the end of September, Beverly Street, the entire length of about 6 blocks, is converted into Diagon Alley for the Queen City Mischief & Magic Festival. Started in 2016 as a one-off celebration of J.K. Rowling’s The Cursed Child by city manager and recent Harry Potter fangirl convert, the 8,000 attendees raised a few eyebrows and put the city council to wondering if lighting could strike twice. 10 years later is has struck many times, with the small town swelling with an additional 20,000 tourists in 2025.

Next up: Florence SC

Onward!

Tippy has become a Harry Potter fan …

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Salute to 250: The Full Eclipse Battle of Monmouth, and 𝅘𝅥𝅮 𝅘𝅥𝅮 iron and coke, chromium steel 𝅘𝅥𝅮 𝅘𝅥𝅮: Allentown PA (with a nod to Billy Joel)

Billy Joel, in his eponymous hit on his 1982 album The Nylon Curtain, eulogized the steel industry of Allentown. But Allentown, Pennsylvania, wasn’t always a steel town, it played a significant role during the Revolutionary War. Far inland from the mainly coastal British forces, it served as a strategic location for troop movements and encampments and thus saw relatively infrequent direct battle action. It became a favored strategic storage and logistics hub.

The town’s roots go back to William Allen’s land purchase in 1735, who then laid out Northampton Town in 1762. It later became the county seat and was renamed Allentown in 1838, but with its Revolutionary War-era identity still tied to the earlier Northampton name. After the British victory at Brandywine in September 1777, Philadelphians feared that Philadelphia would be occupied by the redcoats (it was), and that their town and church bells would be melted down for weapons, so they moved 11 bells, including the cherished Liberty Bell, north for protection. They rested under Zion’s Reformed Church in Northampton Town until late June of 1778 when Philly was abandoned and evacuated during a British retreat. There was a mad scramble in the rush to also evacuate and securely remove all of the important documents of the young American country, including the original hand-written parchment copy of the Declaration of Independence, perhaps one of the most significant documents in the history of the world. There is a long story of the travels and travails of that parchment, it’s a wonder and a miracle that we have it to display at all.

During their retreat, British forces marched through Northampton Town under a total solar eclipse on June 24, 1778. Washington’s troops, newly mobilized from Valley Forge, attacked the redcoat columns near Monmouth Courthouse in sweltering summer heat. The battle ended inconclusively, with both sides badly bloodied but claiming victory. Still, Monmouth showed that the less experienced and less equipped Continental Army could stand up to British regulars, boosting American morale and momentum. It also put the British Army on the defensive and became the last major Revolutionary War engagement in the North.

The country surrounding Allentown has a lot of tourist appeal, too. It is Pennsylvania Dutch country, which is somewhat of a misnomer. Unlike today, in colonial times there were two “Dutch” constituencies. The “Upper Dutch” emanated from the German highlands and spoke mostly German dialects. “Lower Dutch” hailed from the lowlands of what we now know as The Netherlands and were what we now recognize as Dutch. The Pennsylvania Dutch are Upper Dutch, primarily Germanic and more closely identified with the Amish and Mennonite communities. As such, they have many of the same skills in farming, food stuff and baking that we found in Lancaster among the Amish.

And everywhere you see the Barn Stars. Barn stars are a Pennsylvania Dutch folk-art tradition: colorful geometric symbols painted on barns, often with stars, suns, flowers, and other motifs. In the Pennsylvania Dutch community, they are part of a broader visual language tied to identity, beauty, and sometimes beliefs about good luck or protection, though the “magic charm” interpretation is often overstated. They’re sometimes called “hex signs,” but that name came later and was popularized by outsiders; many earlier Pennsylvania Dutch terms were simpler words for stars and flowers. Today, barn stars are seen as a living folk tradition that reflects the region’s heritage. There is a driving tour in and around Kutztown that showcases dozens of fine examples.

There were plenty of roadside billboards advertising the Lost River Caverns nearby. (Note: after already having driven almost 4,000 miles, we regard anything within 30 miles as “nearby”). Having seen one Lost River, with a Gorge, in New Hampshire, we were curious to see its cousin, with a cavern. Discovered by a mining crew blasting limestone, the caverns were purchased in the early 1900’s and turned into a tourist attraction. A single-lane concrete and brick path descends 116 feet under a hillside to expose numerous cavern features like stalagmites and stalactites, mineral deposits, a few fossils, and the river that appears out of nowhere and disappears back into nowhere below your feet. It’s very much a mini-Carlsbad Caverns experience.

No visit to Allentown would be complete without a stop at Deitrich’s Meat and Country Store. Tons of locally produced meat, pies, candy, canned goods and ice cream will leave your mouth watering (and possibly your wallet thinner). Apparently the Pennsylvania Dutch will eat a pig completely up, including every part of it but the hooves. All the meat cuts, sausage casings, feet, snouts, ears, even jowls. You can get a pig head either fresh or smoked.

And we both guessed that this partially finished (likely abandoned) food trailer project might have something to do with the Pennsylvania Dutch pig fascination.

Update on Rig Repairs: after shattering the right-side convex rearview mirror in the very narrow bridge at Washington Crossing, we ordered a replacement on, you guessed it, Amazon. But it arrived and although being the right size mirror piece, the plastic base was not compatible with our existing mirror housing. That didn’t stop Wendy: she bull-doggedly pried the mirror piece off of the very sticky tar-like glue that held it to the base and got it all off in 3 neat pieces. Add in some Scotch double-sided bonding tape and the new pieces went on right over the broken old pieces. Not quite good as new, but it will get us home much safer.

And with our trailer A/C acting up, sounding like it wants to quit after running for a while, we have been babying it back home, running it as little as possible in anticipation of the days warming up considerably more as we get farther south. We pulled into Walmart and bought a powerful column fan and have been keeping pretty comfortable with its use.

Next up: Staunton VA

Onward!

Tippy has a new friend.

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Salute to 250: Family Supplement, Lost River Gorge and Covered Bridges

This is a Family Supplement to our history series, so if you history buffs want to skip, feel free. Unless, by now, you actually feel like a member of the family, in which case, read on!

While connecting with family and old friends (who are for all intents and purposes, family), we put our full day and a half to good use.

We started with a self-guided tour of the Lost River Gorge and Boulder Caves in Woodstock New Hampshire. The Lost River gets its name by getting lost, literally. It disappears underground for a while and re-emerges into Lost River Gorge, a natural feature in the White Mountains that was shaped over millions of years by erosion, then dramatically carved by glaciers during the Ice Age. Its first documented exploration was in 1852, when the Jackman brothers reportedly discovered the caves after one brother fell into what became known as Shadow Cave. In the early 1900s, logging threatened the area, so the Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests bought Lost River in 1912 to preserve it. Over time a series of boardwalks has been constructed (and frequently re-constructed) to allow safe access to the gorge bottom and 11 caves created out of the boulders that fell from collapsed canyon walls. A ¾ mile long boardwalk path descends and climbs 1,000 steps in all for a beautiful, cool and fun family activity.

At the end of our boardwalk tour there is a photo spot, a gigantic eagles nest constructed out of saplings. We couldn’t resist, of course.

We spent the next day visiting two close-by covered bridges. The covered bridge is a New England fixture. Why covered? We asked the same question and got an answer. The cover over the bridge protects the structure and planking from rapid erosion due to weather. The superstructure and planking are the most difficult and expensive parts to build and would deteriorate in just a few years of harsh winter weather if unprotected. So an “expendable” cover, frequently with siding, is built to protect the expensive part as the roof and siding are easily replaced.

What is truly amazing is the construction of the bridge itself. No nails or screws in the original structure, just wooden pegs and interlocking structural components. Of course, lots of additional work has been done to preserve and renovate them using more modern materials, but the original stuff, mostly 100+ years old, is in pretty darn good shape!

Our bridge tour ended up in downtown Brattleboro and we took a walk through the historic district. There, as one would expect, are a lot of stone buildings, mostly churches, which look to have stood the test of time quite well.

We also found the usual main street stuff with restaurants and gift shops, and even this establishment directly across the street from a tattoo parlor.

Directly across the street from the town tattoo parlor. Maybe it has the same owner?

This is likely our best use of 36 hours for the whole trip, and we’re pretty sure more trips with these folk will result.

Onward!

Tippy agrees.

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Salute to 250: The Land of Maple Syrup, Vermont, and Molly Stark, American Heroine

If you are at all interested: the Mystery Pic from the Bar Harbor drop is the Penobscot Narrows Bridge.

Here’s a fun fact. We met up with family on our Vermont stop, one of whom, Veronica Wirth, is extended family and lives in Warren VT. She recently discovered she is an ancestor of Samuel Slocum, who at one point laid claim to Aquidneck Island, the battle site south of Providence showcased in a previous blog. Samuel is better known as the inventor of the sewing pin that had a head on it to keep it from slipping through cloth, and also the inventor of the method for inserting them into paper as a packaging method, something that has been superseded by plastic packaging. If you are a quilter, you know what I’m talking about. I’m guessing that makes Vernonica a true DAR, Daughter of the American Revolution. It’s truly a small world.

Pins in paper packaging. Say that fast 10 times!

At one point we dined on the waterfront in Brattleboro at The Marina. It is a very popular seafood restaurant that has a great view over the bay at the confluence of the West and Connecticut rivers. While being seated, we were treated to a short tour of their Veteran’s Table, a single seating that honors all fallen veterans of all wars. There is a single place, set in perpetuity as if waiting for their return. A photo was recently snapped of a rainbow that fell across the table, the result of an odd reflection of the sun’s rays through a glass surface somewhere in the roof of the restaurant, and a waitress was struck by the beauty of it and shared it with us. So, we’re sharing it with you. Always Remember.

We were mystified too by the sight of a very strange building a distance away on the opposite shore.

Some group research later decoded the mystery as being a building that sits adjacent to the landing area of the Harris Hill ski jump just outside of town. The diagonal stripe of windows serves the judges who determine how far the jumper has gone.

One of the unsung heroes of the RevWar is Molly Stark. Her husband, General John Stark, headed the First New Hampshire Regiment, which he personally recruited after being moved to join the Continental Army effort. His troops, all volunteers, were inspired to the Battle of Bennington, fought on August 16, 1777, by his declaration “Now, my men, yonder are the Hessians! Tonight, the American flag flies over yonder hill or Molly Stark sleeps a widow!” While his regimental accomplishments were many, they are equally matched by those of his wife.

Elizabeth “Molly” Paige Stark was a headstrong, accomplished and independent woman, and mother to 11 children. She frequently ignored her husband’s advice and entreaties (well, with 11 kids maybe not all), walking her own path. When the General took his army westward off to war, she personally recruited additional New Hampshire militiamen to help defend her hometown. She also converted her barn into a field hospital to treat returning wounded from both sides of the conflict. The westward path her husband took with his troops is named after her, The Molly Stark Scenic Byway. There is also a state park along this byway, Vermont Route 9, named after her, and in it is a steep trail loop that winds up at a 60’ tall fire lookout tower. The trail was reminiscent of the Pole Steeple Trail from a previous blog, but we climbed it nonetheless. Like most towers, the climb up is easier than the climb down, as evidenced by this picture of 3 of the hiking crew using 3 different techniques to descend, the front-facing slow descent, the side-facing full-foot-on-the-step method, and the backward white-knuckle-grip climbdown. Disclaimer: the author never made it to the top.

The view from the top is spectacular.

A 360 view from the top of the Fire Tower at the summit of the Mt. Olga trail in Molly Stark State Park

Next up: The Full Eclipse Battle of Monmouth, and 𝅘𝅥𝅮 𝅘𝅥𝅮 iron and coke, chromium steel 𝅘𝅥𝅮 𝅘𝅥𝅮: Allentown PA (with a nod to Billy Joel)

Onward!

Tippy has his macho mountain man gig working.

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Salute to 250: Bah Haabah (Bar Harbor) and Acadia National Park

Although Maine was not a colony during the RevWar (it was then part of Massachusetts) it did play an outsized part in the conflict by not only supplying significant manpower to the Continental Army but also hosting several battles.

The first naval contest took place as The Battle of Machias on June 11, 1775. About 35 fanatical Sons-of-Liberty patriots from communities surrounding Machias Bay, having reached the end of their rope with the British, saw an opportunity when the Margaretta, a single, poorly armed British schooner sat alone in the bay. They commandeered the sloop Unity and whatever weapons they could find, including a pitchfork, to pursue and capture the ship in what was recognized as the first naval victory for the colonies. The schooner was armed with 4 cannons and 6 swivel guns on deck; the patriot ship was smaller and totally unarmed (the patriots had no firearms either). Nevertheless, a pursuit and Errol-Flynn-like boarding took place, and the motley patriot crew overcame the Britons, capturing their prize in the process.

A much less favorable battle was the Burning of Falmouth on October 18, 1775. British warships, commanded by Captain Henry Mowat, sailed into town and opened fire with a bombardment that lasted most of the day. Toward the end, British sailors landed and burned whatever was left, leaving 1,000 colonials homeless and stoking anger against the crown.

The blush was really off the rose of the American Navy at the Penobscot Expedition in July and August of 1779. American forces attempted to drive the British out of the fort at Castine on Penobscot Bay, laying siege from both land and sea on the enemy, but failed after several weeks in what was, until Pearl Harbor in 1941, the largest naval defeat in American history.

Battles were few in the harsh countryside and forests of Maine, where the summer fighting season is short and the winters are brutal, but the Mainers proved tough soldiers and determined patriots. Their contribution to the effort, even with a couple of notable defeats, is regarded as heroic and great.

We settled into our campsite at Bar Harbor Campground, the nearest RV resort to the actual town. For RVers reading this, we highly recommend this place. It is very much like a state park setting, but with high-end amenities, including a pool heated to 85F!

There is also some pretty awesome Lobstah and Ice Cream just across the street at the Bar Harbor Lobster Pound and the Ice Cream Boat. This is the land of blueberries, and the signature combo of a heated piece of blueberry pie with blueberry ice cream ala mode, is killer.

We were here 2 full days and spent the first one, which was beautiful, sunny and warm, taking advantage of Acadia National Park. After hauling our kayaks all the way north and not really finding any good water to paddle in, we finally got to put them in at Eagle Lake, the largest lake in Acadia and purported to be the best for wildlife viewing. They were right about being beautiful, but not so much on the wildlife, which was mostly bicyclists behaving wildly. The “No Ebikes” sign wasn’t being obeyed, and the speed limit was meaningless.

We also made a run around the Loop Road and stopped at Sand Beach. Not much different from any other beach, we thought it a little too crowded.

We enjoyed a couple of barbequed Costco tenderloins for dinner, warned that there was a chance of showers the next day. The “showers” started about midnight and got quite heavy, continuing through the morning and right up to lunchtime. We were comfy in the trailer, but we couldn’t help but think of the tent campers sprinkled throughout the park. Rugged folk!

It wasn’t exactly biblical, but it rained fairly hard for quite a while

This marks 23 days on the road, with 10 to go. At this point we have touched grass in all 13 colonies. We will sign off with our Mystery Pic. Put your best guess of what this is in the comments section. If you guess correctly, we’ll force Tippy’s lawyer to drink a gallon of Vermont Maple Syrup and then abandon him at a Waffle House.

Mystery Pic: put your best guess in the comments

Flashback note from New Hampshire (thank you to Heidi and the notes she gave us): Ezra Carter was the first physician to settle in the Concord area. He kept his own botanical garden to compound many of his medications. He died in 1768 at the age of 48, and one of his last acts was to look over his accounts and write out a paid in full receipt for all of the poor people who owed him money, then instructed his executors to deliver those receipts immediately after his death.

Flashback #2. Wendy discovered from Heidi’s notes that Rumford is actually the prior name of Concord. Now I know where the hell the it is. In fact, originally founded as Pennycook, the town name was changed to Rumford in 1734, and finally renamed Concord in 1765. Our good Countess, Sarah, was a native gal who married into royalty and got her title on the cheap. I’m still hoping you find this much more fascinating than I do. I have instituted a ChatGPT check on Wendy’s bloodline to check for any nascent royalty, but as a backup I could just give myself a cool new title, Duke of Palm Coast, if it didn’t sound so much like I had changed my name and become a bookie.

Financial Flashback from the Hartford blog: We have SunPass for toll roads in Florida and it participates in the EZPass system common throughout the East coast. With automatic account funding, the little dings on my mobile phone remind me that tolls are ubiquitous all throughout New England, even on Interstates (this is unheard of in the Free State of Florida). I expect to get tolled crossing over any bridge or going through any major tunnels, and many of the highways just scan you as you pass under an overhead structure set across all the lanes. Imagine my shock when my phone starts dinging like a slot machine a day after arriving in Bar Harbor as the automatic toll system in New York finally figures out that the scan it made as we crossed the George Washington Bridge was a pickup truck with 2 axles and a trailer with 2 axles. It had already clocked the truck on the scan and charged us for those 2 axles ($24 bucks apiece), but then the automatic review of the camera photo revealed that we also had a 2 axle trailer, and bing-bing, racked up another $48 for that. Total fare to cross the bridge: $96. Nowhere was there a sign of this, and nowhere does Google maps or my RVLife GPS app tell me this, or I would have planned a route around it. When your replenishment amount is set to $20 and the auto-replenish level is $10,  it gets exciting when the computers finally figure out what to charge you, then your toll balance goes negative, then it replenishes, then the computers charge it again, and you rinse-and-repeat until the whole $96 is in Mayor Mamdani’s pocket. Sheesh!

Next up, Land of Maple Syrup, Vermont

Onward!

Tippy is healing nicely and has a word about planning and weather.

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Salute to 250: Lobstah! Portsmouth New Hampshire

Fort William and Mary, now Fort Constitution, before the patriot gunpowder and cannon raids

In late 1774 King George had become alarmed that the buildup of arms and ammunition in the northern colonies might lead to rebellious outbreaks, and he ordered all munitions in forts and large caches of gunpowder to be seized and secured by British troops. Boston Harbor had already been closed in punishment for the Boston Tea Party and when gunpowder stores there were removed it raised the hackles of colonists in Portsmouth, what became known as the Powder Alarm. Patriots had already safely removed and hidden gunpowder stores at Newport in Rhode Island when the news circulated that troops from Boston would march north to secure the gunpowder at Fort William and Mary in Portsmouth (now known as Fort Constitution). Four months before his famous Concord ride, Paul Revere rode north to warn patriots of this, and locals took action.

On December 14, 1774, locals led by patriot John Langdon stormed the fort, which guarded the mouth of the busy seaport, and overwhelmed the six-man British detachment guarding it. They took 96 barrels of gunpowder, which they quickly distributed around local towns.  The next day, another group led by John Sullivan raided the fort again and took their 16 cannons. In one of the first direct acts of the RevWar, and the only battle to occur in New Hampshire, patriots had secured a significant stash of arms that would become a determining factor in an early battle, the Battle of Bunker Hill.

The Battle of Bunker Hill, fought with gunpowder and cannons stolen from the British! And famous for the quote “Don’t fire until you see the whites of their eyes!”

It being less than one hour from our campsite at Sea Coast Camping & RV in North Hampton NH, we, of course, took a side trip to see the New Hampshire capitol building in Concord. Remember the rule of “capitol” vs. “capital”? CapitOl refers to the building, capitAl refers to virtually everything else including the city, a discussion about the entity without specifying the building, etc. I’m glad we cleared that up. Disclaimer: we used AI to clarify it, so it’s still possible that whole explanation is a hallucination caused by faulty voltage.

The capitol (building) was closed because it was Saturday, but we still got to take pictures. The capital (city) was open and having a farmers’ market. We parked in the Governor’s spot (free) but after a spirited discussion eventually relented and moved to a pay spot ($1.50). If his office is closed, my argument goes, he’s not likely to show up for work. Especially him being a government employee and all. We will note that the New Hampshire Capitol is the oldest state capitol still being used for legislative sessions. It looks substantial enough to last for quite a bit longer.

We also walked through the Old North Cemetery where there are graves from patriots who fought in the American RevWar. Buried there also is our 14th President Franklin Pierce and most of his family, minus one of his sons (all three died in childhood). It isn’t known where his youngest son is buried, he died at 3 days old in Amherst Massachusetts. We know these fun facts because we ran into Heidi Smith of Laconia New Hampshire, who was in the cemetery researching for her new book on First Lady Jane Pierce, including discovering the final resting place of Franklin Pierce, Jr. Heidi was a fountain of knowledge, even informing us that there was a slave, Nancy (who only goes by her first name like so many modern day entertainers ala Cher, Sting, Madonna, SnoopDog), buried there, unusual for an old New England cemetery. And Sarah Thompson, Countess of Rumsford, is also interned there. I hope you can get more excited about that than I am as I have no idea how important it is to be a Countess, and I have no clue where the hell Rumsford is. I’m also not wasting any AI tokens on a search…

Author Heidi Smith. Love the shirt!

We found many headstones of RevWar patriots but alas didn’t find Nancy as we had to scoot quickly when a sudden squall blew up and we had to run for the truck.

Just down the street from the capitol is a massive stone church which was a gift to the First Church of Christ the Scientist of Concord. The gift is from Mary Baker G. Eddy, the founder of the Christian Scientists. There must be some serious tithing going on for Ms. Mary to have enough of it to gift a church this grand.

There is a statue commemorating Concord New Hampshire native Christa MCauliffe, the first educator astronaut, who tragically was lost in the failure of the space shuttle Challenger 73 seconds after liftoff on January 28, 1986.

Christa MCauliffe, America’s first Educator Astronaut. RIP

And there is a plaque commemorating a United States tour by General Lafayette, ally to the Continental Army during the RevWar, taking a belated victory lap around the colonies new states in 1825. Without his French troops, we would probably all still be talking like Sir Paul McCartney and drinking warm beer.

Fun Fact: we have learned during our tours of state capitols that all 50 in the United States have a replica of the Liberty Bell, and that while the bell is a cast duplicate, the crack is mostly painted on. Use this little-known gem to blow the minds of all your trivia opponents.

We returned on our trek via Portsmouth so we could make a stop at Trader Joe’s. Any time we get within the gravitational pull of a 100-mile radius around a TJ’s, we pull in to replenish our fruit stocks and add another bag of two of the Very Berry Granola. At that point, we were quite close to Kittery Maine, home to our favorite lobster house, Warren’s (no relation). We popped across the bridge and parked, put our name on the wait list, and then discovered that Warren’s (no relation) Lobster House had gone out of business in 2025 (thank you Covid), been bought by a real estate developer, and reopened as Warren’s (no relation) Seafood Restaurant, NOT AFFILIATED IN ANY WAY WHATSOEVER WITH THE PREVIOUS ESTABLISHMENT BY A SIMILAR NAME AT THIS LOCATION, so their disclaimer poster says. Anyway, there was an enormous crowd and a 30-minute wait, and we had by then driven 1900 miles to have our lobstah, so we stayed and ate. And it was good, boy was it good.

Next up, Bah Hahbah (Bar Harbor) and Acadia National Park

Onward!

Tippy is back! After his lawyer dumped him for a more lucrative and promising case, he then realized Parental Leave was off the table, and he got hungry, negotiations took a favorable turn for the blog and he caved. At least I think that’s why he caved. Side note: Chester hired Tippy’s lawyer to go after his temporary boss, and then I hired Chester’s lawyer to pursue a racketeering case against both of them. Second side note: Tippy’s Chester’s lawyer has some really big biker-looking friends, too. Real fun guys!

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Salute to 250: Hartford, Rhode Island, Jews and a Teenage Vampire

Site 120 at Sunfox Campground, Lisbon CT

Our drive into Connecticut took us via the Cross Bronx Expressway in New York City. Even my “RV Safe” GPS app didn’t warn me about making sure I followed the truck route to the UPPER deck of the George Washington Bridge, even though the road signs indicated COMMERCIAL VEHICLES ONLY FOLLOW THIS ROUTE with signs directing them into another lane. At the last minute, we zigged off the approach lane at the LAST EXIT FOR HIGH VEHICLES sign, the only warning that we would lose the top 2 feet of the trailer speeding onto the lower deck and followed a construction-detoured single lane through a maze and back onto the truck approach ramp. We don’t need any more repairs on this trip, thank you.

We stopped shortly after that in New Rochelle to fill up at Costco and get a couple of $1.50 hotdogs for lunch. It’s the most crowded Costco I’ve ever seen, including the parking lot. We had to go up the street to a Home Depot to park the rig, then walk back. We got a couple thousand steps in anyway. The food court inside was crowded too, but there was a 4-top table with one man sitting at it, and we invited ourselves to share with him. Wendy, as she always does, struck up a conversation and it turns out he is a history buff with a special interest in the RevWar. So we had a lively talk over lunch, and he pointed out a RevWar site close to us, although we wouldn’t attempt to drive there towing the trailer.

The Battle of Glovers Rock (also known as the Battle of Pell’s Point) took place October 18, 1776, on City Island, which is now a small residential town in the Bronx. At the time, Washington had an army encampment that became surrounded and trapped by British forces. Colonel John Glover’s Massachusetts troops used stone walls and delaying tactics as a resistance force to slow a much larger British and Hessian force, buying George Washington’s army time to retreat safely toward White Plains. It was a tactical British victory, but a strategic American success by keeping Washington’s troops from being cut off and severely damaged early in the war.

Happy to have discovered yet another small story inside the larger one, we settled into our camp site at Sunfox Campground in Lisbon, CT. This campground, which is at least 30 years old, has a very new “big rig” section where we are camped. It is family owned and run; their 11-year-old daughter checked us in and helped us to choose a better site than we had been assigned. We love seeing these free-range country kids pulling some weight for their families. The amenities here are numerous: a pool and hot tub, a disc golf course, hiking trails, a playground for kids that includes a giant bouncing cushion, a giant tent event center, sand volleyball courts and more. Tuesday night was high school sand volleyball; we think the local school rents time on their courts.

This stop was primarily intended to visit family in the Hartford area, but we are also fitting in a full day in Rhode Island and a half-day in Hartford, both less than an hour’s drive from Lisbon where we are camped.

Our first stop on Wednesday was the Rhode Island State House. It has either the heaviest or 2nd heaviest marble dome of any building in the continental United States (the sources conflict, but suffice it to say that thing is ginormous). The state house itself is significantly smaller than others we have toured, and we guess that makes sense because the legislature is proportional to the population, and Rhode Island clocks in 44th out of 50 on that metric.

Roger Williams founded Rhode Island in 1636 after he was banished from the Massachusetts Bay Colony for his religious dissent. This, to me, is odd because most of the colonists arrived in America to escape religious persecution in England and elsewhere.

Roger Williams, founder of Rhode Island

We intended to visit the Roger Williams National Memorial, but it was closed on Wednesday. We took advantage of the extra time afforded to us by the closure to drive south to visit the site of the Battle of Rhode Island, the largest RevWar battle in New England. The battle took place on Aquidneck Island near the entrance to Narragansett Bay, perceived to be a strategically critical position by both American and British Forces. The American forces had occupied the island in an attempt to forestall the British fleet from sailing into the bay but were overwhelmed when Hessian forces joined in a pincer attack. The Germans marched up the west road and the British marched up the east road and forced the American troops to retreat back to Tiverton and across the narrows back onto the mainland south of Providence. Again, not an American victory, but one that forced the opposition to expend precious supplies and time.

Newport sits at the southern tip of Aquidneck Island. It’s a beautiful city, dripping with money and expensive yachts, so it felt like a good idea to stop and have lunch on the waterfront. On our way through the city we discovered Cardines Field, a small ballpark named after World War One hero Bernado Cardines. It is one of the oldest ballparks in the country, located right downtown in Newport, and hosts MLB Collegiate League games 3 nights a week in summer. True Americana here, summer ball in a tiny ballpark, beer and dogs and fun.

Our return drive took us across country on back roads, where at one point Wendy noticed a street sign reading “Purgatory Road”. “Who in the heck would name a street like that?” she wondered, and further research turned up a plausible story. In the late 1800’s, tuberculosis, then known as “consumption”, plagued the small town of Exeter, Rhode Island. There was no known cure and the deaths, which were frequent with an 80% fatality rate, were gruesome. The terror of these sights fed hysteria in the population, and when the family of Mercy Brown started dying off one by one, the townspeople succumbed to a rumor that Mercy was to blame, even though she had been dead and buried for 4 months. The theory was that she was a vampire, and was consuming the life of her relatives, so of course they exhumed her and a few of her relatives to prove the point. Her body was pretty well preserved while the others were in advanced stages of decomposition, and this became proof of the theory. In actuality, Mercy had been buried in winter, and the nearly frozen earth of her grave had probably preserved her quite well, but this was ignored so the townspeople could justify cutting out her heart and liver and burning them to ashes to break the curse. Her brother was still alive, but ailing, so they made a potion from the ashes and fed it to him, and he died shortly thereafter, go figure. I can easily see a future documentary on this added to AppleTV, and I’m claiming some sort of rights to it right now.

We’re adding a plug for colonial Jews since Newport had the heaviest concentration of them in colonial times (heck, that might still be true). There were about 1,500 Jews in the 13 colonies (200 lived in Newport, RI). They weren’t a significant part of the fighting forces, only about 100 in total joined the ranks, but they were a wealthy population and made sizeable financial contributions to the war effort. A lot of them were completely bankrupted by the war. We thank them for their service. Now quick, tell me where you saw THAT in your history books!

We had a very nice visit with family, Wendy’s sister Julie and husband Glenn, niece Amber, grandnephew Xavier, and grandniece Viviana. The kids are great and always a delight. At 6 and 4 years old respectively, they are becoming immersed in non-school activities like T-Ball (Xavier) and dance (Vivi, we met up and attended one of her rehearsals for an upcoming recital). Mom Amber is becoming immersed in supporting all of their activities and her career, which only requires about 23 hours of each day.

Travel Update: it’s always something with an RV. Our trailer has two slides that expand when we’re camped to give us extra room. Each slide has a power cord that feeds it from the main chassis, and this cord is kept suspended by a long spring that extends and retracts with the cord when the slide goes out or in, to keep the loose cord from dangling below while were driving. The originals were made of regular steel and of course have rusted to the point of breaking, which lets all the electrical cords dangle down underneath the trailer waiting for something to catch them and rip them out while we are motoring. I needed 2 new ones, and you guessed right! Amazon!

Wendy took advantage of the shipment, too. We collect magnets from places we visit and have been using our range hood to display them but have run out of space. She found some stainless steel panels that fit the side of our pantry cabinet, and the problem is solved. One note about magnets: magnets are a popular tourist collectible, and we have had no problem finding them for roughly $4 each everywhere we go, except Newport Rhode Island, where the cheapest one was a handmade whalebone scrimshaw specimen at $14.95. Yes, I did look for the “Made in China” label (didn’t find one); no, it didn’t end up in our collection.

Thank God for overnight delivery when you are only going to be someplace for 2 days.

Next up, Lobstah! Portsmouth, New Hampshire

Onward!

Another annoying Legal Notice: Tippy is still in negotiations. I’m sure none of you care, but why would an unmarried zoo animal need Parental Leave? It ain’t gonna happen. Chester the Scab has offered to stay on as long as he is needed and wanted. I am sort of tiring of throwing the ball and walking him at midnight, however. In the meantime, seemingly as the only leverage I can manifest in negotiations, Chester gets top billing.

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Salute to 250: Philadelphia, Washington Crossing and Valley Forge

We settled into our site at Philadelphia South KOA Holiday / Clarksboro after a very short drive of just 62 miles. It has been nice the last couple of stops to have such short drives. There are two types of KOA campgrounds: KOA Journey, like we stayed at in West Virginia, is for short term stayovers, like a pause in your driving schedule to rest up and recharge; KOA Holiday is a more resort-like property with lots of amenities and even cabins to rent that is more conducive to bringing the entire family for a week as a camping vacation. Our Philly Holiday location didn’t have so many kids, though, because it was stuffed full of futbol fanatics (yes, like in soccer). Philadelphia is hosting a month of FIFA World Cup events and games, and the entire town has been taken over by European and Asian tourists wearing bright Futbol jerseys from every corner of the earth. A “FIFA Ambassador” (they are everywhere) volunteered to take the picture of us above. Our KOA was full of giant RV’s (Class A Motorhomes and 5th Wheels) plastered with signage and team names, and we’re guessing they are there for the month. Philly KOA is the only RV campground close to Philadelphia (only 15 miles) so I’m glad I booked this 7 months ago!

Philadelphia itself, packed as it is with FIFA tourists, is decked out with FIFA bunting and signage, and all this will come down the day the World Cup events are done with a super-fast retrofit to America 250 bunting and signage. We saw the boxes of waiting stuff stacked around the backs of all the displays, ready to go. It will take an army, I think, but judging by the army of volunteers that were raised for the WC, I have faith they will just reuse that army for America 250.

We started our day of immersion with an early “Open House” tour of Independence Hall, available from 9am to 9:50AM. We recommend it to avoid the formal tour crowds of later in the day. It isn’t a large venue and I imagine it either looks more like a sardine tin later on, or the lines to get in are around the block (which they are set up for).

From there, it’s only steps (our iPhones were counting) to the Liberty Bell Center, then a few more steps to the Independence Visitor Center. In these 3 buildings you can get a concentration of every bit of American Revolutionary War history you were ever exposed to in school, and a bit more. And they are all free. Somehow, more than a few steps farther, a National Constitution Center was raised but you have to pay $25 each (senior rate) to see anything. We passed, feeling like we had been immersed enough.

All that immersion made us hungry and reminded of one of the boxes to tick while we were in town, a genuine Philly Cheesesteak. We spotted a small sidewalk cart near Independence Hall, and I asked the owner, whose name is Rostam Khan, if any fat cops ate there. He first looked at me funny, then I realized his English wasn’t native, so I explained “you know, fat policemen”. He laughed and said “Yes, of course!”. When I told him I wanted authentic Philly Cheesesteak, he pulled out his cell phone and showed me an interview he had with Fox29 WTXF that aired on a food segment, proclaiming his to be 100% the real deal. So, we bought and ate. It was a LOT of food for us, and we shared one. You can use this technique when you are next in Philly!

We learned a few new things. Did you know there is a Women’s Liberty Bell? It was inaugurated in 1915 to celebrate the equality of everyone.

And it makes perfect sense, but isn’t something that is pointed out in the school history of the RevWar, that each of the Continental armies had “followers”, wives, sisters and aunts, homeless men, women and children whose best chance at survival was to follow along and perform any tasks or jobs the army needed in exchange for security and sustenance. They acted as nurses, cooks, firewood gatherers, water fetchers, launderers, seamstresses and supply managers. Contrary to what many might be thinking at this moment, it was rare that they were prostitutes. Washington created a policy that governed them, and the armies fed and housed them in exchange for their services. Many got paid in Continental Currency. George figured it was better for a wife or girlfriend to be close by and safe than to have the soldier desert out of loneliness or concern. The flip side to this for the British army was to enlist and employ the same services from either Loyalist colonials or to bring them from England. It gave a slight edge to the Americans to have this part of their logistics managed organically.

“A Military Encampment in Hyde Park”, attributed to James Malton (British)

Washington Park, kitty-corner to Independence Hall, is the site of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier of the Revolutionary War, a tribute to the many anonymous patriots who fought and died for our freedom. Washington Park itself was originally a potter’s field, gravesites for the poor or unidentified, including many RevWar soldiers. The tomb also memorializes the leadership and bravery of George Washington.

Next stop was Washington Crossing, a park and museum about 30 miles north of Philly, close to where George and his troops crossed the Delaware River to attack Hessian troops camped on the New Jersey side. Initially 3 forces were to cross at 3 different ferry locations on the river, then to converge on the Hessian encampment to surround them. 2 of the forces were stymied by the tidal crush of ice downriver that made the river impassable to both foot and boat crossing. On the late afternoon of Christmas Day in 1776, Washington, who was advised against trying to cross, crossed anyhow using 40 flatboats, each capable of holding 40 people, that had been drawn up at McConkey’s Ferry on the Pennsylvania side.

Flatboats would carry up to 40 people, livestock and freight

It was planned to take 4 hours to transport 2,400 men, 50 horses, 18 cannon, and numerous supply wagons across the Delaware River to Johnson’s Ferry on the opposite bank, a few miles upriver from the attack site at Trenton. Instead, it took 13 because of the ice jam in the river, but still didn’t ruin the surprise attack, which gave the only real advantage to the significantly reduced attacking forces. Fortunately, when the surprise effect was combined with the fact that the Hessians, assuming nobody would be able or stupid enough to cross the river, had gotten drunk and passed out the night before, the battle was relatively quick and decisive in favor of the Americans. This was an early victory boost for the patriots, and an example of what happened when the relatively untrained and inexperienced American armies, and especially Washington’s situational awareness and strategic thinking, were underestimated.

A high tidal surge of ice stopped 2 of the patriot forces from crossing, leaving George on his own

We toured south to the 1777-1778 winter camp for the Continental Army, Valley Forge. I had always assumed the name was a reference to a geographical entity, a valley, named after some local townie. But this encampment inherits its name from a successful ironworking business located nearby. The army of some 11,000 to 14,000 soldiers and artillery battalions made camp in the bitter winter with the help of their following women and children. The farmland and forested area they occupied was quickly changed by the harvesting of vast swaths of the forest for logs used to construct about 1,200 smallish huts for shelter from the cold. These shelters proved decisive in the attitudes and health of the troops by the following spring. After the troops departed, the locals quickly scavenged many of the materials used to construct them, so only a few remain in a preserved state.

Baron Friedrich Wilhelm von Steuben, a Prussian recruited by Washington, and uber-experienced in the ways of war, was influential in helping Washington and his officers in planning the layout of both the camp and its defenses. Von Steuben was appointed Inspector General of the Continental Armies, and was in charge of training of forces. “Squad, halt!” were 2 of the very few English words the General knew, but he got the job done admirably.

Baron Friedrich Wilhelm von Steuben, Inspector General of the Continental Army

The valley geography offered wide flat spaces, the farmland, and higher hilltop artillery emplacements that overlooked all the advances to the site and could deliver long distance deterrents to any attacking force. Redoubts, fortified lookouts, were also dug at these locations to assist in detecting any possible enemy forces approaching.

Von Steuben instituted a formal training program for the troops to instill some order and discipline that, later in the war, paid big dividends in battles where the Americans were frequently outnumbered. He also installed protocols for field hospitals that stressed cleanliness and quarantine that dramatically improved the survivability rate of wounded soldiers. His contributions are underappreciated in our war literature.

The encampment at Valley Forge resulted in a lot of “ruined land” with trees cleared for miles around and farmland laid to waste. It took the locals only one year to rehabilitate the land and plant crops again.

A little-known fact about the motto E Pluribus Unum, “out of many, one”, that we have seen thousands of times on virtually all of our currency (go ahead, find some currency all of you ApplePay folk, or borrow some from a neighbor, and take a look). It was coined (pun intended) by George Washington and the 3 intertwined letters appeared on Union soldier uniform buttons.

Travel Update (from a previous blog): We’ve used Amazon a couple of times to get parts that became needed for a repair, and we used it again to get a new Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) for the trailer tires (the truck has a factory integrated one). We can now see, in real time, what the pressure and temperature of each tire is, which gives us a level of anxiety relief after the blowout in North Carolina. The little monitor is stuck on the dash with Alien Tape and constantly reads out both PSI and Temp for each tire. It lets me set a range so I get an audible and visual alarm if the tire pressure gets too high (overheating) or too low (leaking) and has a different alarm for “sudden loss of pressure” that you would get with a puncture. Phew!

Travel Update 2 (also from a much more previous blog): Wendy was cruising through the blog archive and found a mention of gas prices from May 17, 2011, while we were traveling in Northern Nevada. We logged gas at $3.78 per gallon on that day, almost exactly what we just paid to fill the truck before our drive to Connecticut. According to Wendy’s research, “gas prices were high in May, 2011 due to political unrest in the middle east and North Africa”. History does repeat itself. Everybody stop whining about the price of gas, we’ve been there before.

Next up, Hartford Connecticut and Rhode Island

Onward!

Another annoying Legal Notice: Tippy has gone on strike. Words cannot describe. We have hired a scab, Chester, who will be filling in until Tippy’s manager comes to his senses.

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Salute to 250: York, Lancaster and Amish Country

The view from the back of Country Acres Campground in Gordonville PA

As we drive farther east, we get back into the range of British supply lines and thus more RevWar sites. On the drive from Gettysburg to Lancaster we passed through York Pennsylvania, the site of Camp Security. If you always wondered what happened to captured prisoners of war during the Revolutionary War, Camp Security is one of the answers. POWs were a huge problem for the young Continental Army. They have to be housed and fed, and their medical issues attended to. No army really wants to have this problem, and it wasn’t well thought out before the RevWar started. There was a constant evolution of how to handle POWs that largely revolved around temporary encampments, heavily guarded, that had to be moved around as the battles moved back and forth over their locations. POWs were frequently marched hundreds of miles, many along with their families. Remember that there were many Loyalists, colonials that remained loyal to the British crown, that chose to fight on the crown’s side, and they frequently fought by joining battles near their homes. The women and children were given wagons to ride in, but the men walked.

In the late summer of 1781 it was finally decided by Congress to construct a permanent camp, and a site was chosen (under great protest by Joseph Reed, President of Pennsylvania’s Supreme Executive Council) just east of York where an encampment of log huts was built to house prisoners from the 1777 surrender of British General John Burgoyne (5,800 Canadian, British and Hessians), several hundred British soldiers from Cowpens, South Carolina, and 800 POWs from the battle of Frederick. The Hessian soldiers were separated and shipped back to Europe, but it was too difficult to determine if shipping the British solders back wouldn’t just result in them being turned around and sent back to fight, so they were kept imprisoned. Today there is little left of Camp Security, just a monument in an open field.

A couple of Travel Notes before we move eastward to Lancaster and Amish Country. I have tried a few different driving style mixes, such as lowering overall speed by 5 mph and driving without cruise control in the mountains, and this has improved gas mileage from 7.1 mpg to about 8.5 mpg. It may sound small, but it improves our single-tank range by 30+ miles and lowers the range anxiety. We have several driving legs that are less than that, so it also cuts transit time a bit, something that I always appreciate, especially with all the road construction on our routes.

We are also eating exceptionally well, and not by dining out. We intentionally routed ourselves through as much countryside as possible so we could see more of America than just billboards and asphalt. This takes us past many small (usually family-owned) meat, vegetable, fruit and dairy stands. There is no comparison to farm fresh eggs that were pulled out from under a hen just a few hours ago.

And you can take the girl out of the charity group she belongs to at home in Florida, but that doesn’t mean the charity work stops. Wendy is keeping busy with little sewing and crocheting jobs and just finished hand-stitching a quilt for one of the ladies in her Project Linus group.

And she’s handy at DIY solutions for small problems with the rig, kind of a cross between Martha Stewart and McGiver. Our bedroom door wouldn’t stay open, so she crocheted a door holder. The big rubber band thingie that holds our shower doors together while driving broke, so she, you guessed it, crocheted a replacement.

I cannot get the image out of my mind that after 33 days of this we will return home with a crocheted hood protector and matching mirror covers on my truck.

Lancaster itself is surprisingly thin on RevWar sites. There are no battlefields. The closest we got is a short list of properties that had a hand in the war, but not directly in the fighting. Historic Rock Ford is the preserved 1794 home of Edward Hand, Washington’s Adjutant General; Ephrata Cloister, north of Lancaster, served as a war hospital from December 1777 to June 1778; the Duke Street Stables was one of the equestrian stables for Washington’s Continental Army; and Cornwall Iron Furnace, a short drive east, cast cannons for the war, and is one of the best preserved ironmaking sites of its kind. Beyond that, bupkis.

The Cornwall Iron Furnace, where cannons for the RevWar were cast

If you are looking for Amish, however, Lancaster is one of the epicenters for Amish Life. We tried to chart a route through the county to see what we could in one day, and there were so many choices that we decided to take advantage of a free 2-hour bus tour that came with our campground fee. In fact, the next town over, Bird-in-Hand, isn’t really a town so much as a corporation (bird-in-hand.com) that started as a small country inn and expanded to a multi-property conglomerate catering almost entirely to tourism. Our campground is one of their properties, and we inherited the ability to take advantage of any amenities at any of the others, hence the free tour that is offered to their hotel guests.

We aren’t much for tours, but if you want to cover a lot of ground while rubbernecking around, it’s likely the safest way to go. Plus, our guide, Glenn, was raised in an Amish family (his father was Amish, he didn’t follow the path) and gave great insight into all of the features of the community that you wouldn’t get just driving around on your own. A couple of fun facts: the Amish don’t pay for health insurance, they use community crowdfunding, called “Amish Aid” for insurance purposes, to cover each other’s bills; the Amish also don’t pay into Social Security, they are exempt and totally reliant on the community to take care of them in their old age. We also discovered that there are many “Amish only” areas in the farmland that have no overhead electrical wires by the roadside. The Amish don’t use electricity, but in the last few decades they have adopted diesel engines and other powered devices that increase their farming yields. Electricity in a house, however, doesn’t increase farm yields, so they stick with candles and propane (for the most part). We were amazed to find many of their shop tools, and ceiling fans, ran on compressed air, which was fed from a diesel compressor. All of this on the day after SpaceX went public, creating thousands of millionaires out of the cloth of technology. It’s quite a contrast.

What you see and what is real are two different things in Amish Country. They only represent about 9% of the local population, but they stick out starkly from the rest of us and are seemingly everywhere as a result. Horsedrawn buggies are on every road we drove, the traditional Amish dress code is so uniform as to become glaring.

On Friday nights, an Amish woman shows up at the campground office to sell fresh baked goods, dressed traditionally but arriving in a car driven by another woman. Hmmmm. We also saw one Amish man riding an eBike instead of the traditional foot-powered scooter, and inquired, being told that there are a lot of Amish folks who don’t follow the rules and are at risk of pissing off the Bishop. But sometimes the Bishop isn’t watching, and rules become malleable. We saw several cars parked behind barns. Apparently if you can’t see it, you can look the other way when your older son or brother wants to drive. Only recently did the rule against having a telephone in your house get relaxed, and it is becoming more common to see a smartphone in the hand of the Amish man. “Must be 18 to enter this site” starts to look like the beginning of the end.

Our time in Amish Country had us breathing in the fresh air, gazing out over the beautiful and serene farmland, and musing about how wonderful it would be to live here, a simple life in an uncomplicated place. Then we get jolted back to reality by stories that remind us that the Amish are also exempt from High School, and after graduating 8th grade they go to work in the fields and shops. Glenn, our driver on the tour, chuckled about the one day a week the kids don’t have to work (Sunday, church most of the day), and the one day they get to sleep in during planting and harvest seasons (Saturday, until 6AM). And then I can’t help but remember the picture we took of the young girl pushing a single-wheeled plow through the garden patch beside her house. Our thoughts drifted away from Amish Country and on to the next few days of our mission.

Next up, Philadelphia and Valley Forge

Onward!

Legal Notice: To further assuage Tippy’s manager, we will again give you two Tippy’s for the price of one. I cannot believe someone would threaten to form a union of one employee……

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